How to make concrete base

Brymark is one of the most organized companies I have worked for, and I have learned a great deal during my time with them. My background is in carpentry, and I have collaborated with pipe fitters and iron workers. Today, I'd like to share how I built the pipe and deck supports. There are several methods to create concrete supports for pipes and decks, but I will focus on two techniques and highlight key considerations along the way.

To build the supports, the base of the plate is held in place by a nut at the bottom, followed by washers, then a plate, a top washer, and additional nuts to adjust to the required heights. The concrete form provides both outlook and stability to the structure, showcasing the overall design. It's important to note that the base of the plate may not be perfectly level due to environmental factors. To ensure strength and prevent future breakdown, the concrete level should ideally be half the thickness of the plate in the center.

Since carpenters are usually called in after the pipes and deck have been installed, cleaning beneath the plate and the surrounding area of any potential chemical residues is crucial. Using a wire brush combined with water and blowing out debris can help maintain a clean work surface for our new concrete to bond with the existing concrete. Underneath the plate had been bush-hammered by the iron workers to grab onto the new concrete on top. Then we applied an X900 bonding agent, basically glue, for at least an hour to seal it and help it bond better. 

After determining the foundation size based on the dimensions of your supports' base plate, selecting the appropriate chamfer strip for your reveals is essential. Standard chamfer sizes are typically three-quarters of an inch or one inch, but customization is possible. For this project, we chose a chamfer size of three-quarters of an inch with spacing set at three-quarters.

For example, if your base plate measures 12 inches, you would add 3 inches to both sides. If using the Chase-around method, you will also need to account for the thickness of your plywood. We used three-quarter-inch paper-faced plywood, meaning an additional three-quarters of an inch should be added, totalling 18 and three-quarters of an inch for all four sides. The Chase-around method is the easiest way to construct a box with square plates, ensuring all sides are uniform.

Alternatively, the boxed-out approach is necessary when the spacing differs on one side. For instance, with 12-inch plates, you would add 7.5 inches on one side and 6 inches on the opposite side. This results in the North and South sides measuring 19.5 inches, while the East and West sides measure 18 inches. The order doesn't matter; you can choose which sides are longer or shorter, as long as opposite sides remain equal.

Once the box size is determined, measure the height at each of the four corners and take the highest measurement. Cut your material accordingly. Most of our box heights ranged from three-quarters of an inch to two and seven-eighths inches. While the standard plywood size is 4 feet by 8 feet, you will need plywood pieces sized 19.5 inches by 18 inches. Therefore, measure and cut your plywood to 38 inches by 48 inches. 

Make a precise cut with a skilled saw, leaving three-eighths of an inch for error. With one piece of 38 inches by 48 inches plywood, cut it into sections according to the desired height of your box, dividing the material evenly. For example, if your box height is 2 inches, set the table saw guard at 2 inches and double-check the distance to the guard from the front and back of the table saw for accuracy. Discrepancies in measurements can lead to tapered materials. Ensure the table saw depth is slightly higher than the material thickness to minimize the risk of kickback. Take the time to verify material lengths and distances to prevent costly mistakes.

Once all sides of the box are cut, you'll need to decide how to apply your chamfer strip. There are two options: you can place the chamfer with uprights in all four corners for a wall effect, or you can do it without uprights for a pointed chamfer around the edges. The choice is yours—what do you prefer?